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Between ice cream parades, captain dinner and the usual tourist attractions of Vienna, Budapest and Bratislava, passenger Else (84) meets Captain Niko (41) on the Danube cruise ship "MS Europa". On the way to the Black Sea, old routines and relationships begin to falter until Else disappears in the delta and Niko dances in the Panorama Lounge of his ship, bleeding. A film about motherhood, masculinity, home and the (im)possibility of becoming a different person.